How to fix a sticking door

What you'll learn

• How to find exactly where the door is binding
• How to check hinges and stop if a screw is spinning or the door is fire-rated
• Why removing door material is a last resort, not the first fix
• When a sticking door is a symptom of a frame or building-movement issue

Step by step

1. 1. Open the door and inspect each hinge leaf, pin, and screw. Lift the latch-side edge gently while watching for movement. Tighten loose screws by hand so you can feel when they seat and avoid stripping the wood.
2. 2. If a screw spins, stop tightening. A lightly used interior wood door may accept a manufacturer-approved wood repair and a properly sized screw. Heavy, exterior, security, and fire-rated doors need hardware and repairs that preserve the tested door assembly.
3. 3. Do not replace every hinge screw with a universal long screw. Follow the instructions for your door, hinge, fastener, and framing so a long screw does not pull the frame out of square or strike a hidden utility.
4. 4. Close the door slowly and compare the gaps around the top and sides. Mark the exact rub with pencil or use a strip of paper to locate a tight spot. Also check whether the latch and strike are misaligned before sanding the slab.
5. 5. Correct a loose hinge or adjustable strike first. If the frame is twisted or out of square, the fix may require shimming and refastening rather than removing door material.
6. 6. Plane or sand only a suitable, non-rated wood door after checking the door maker's limits. Take a minimal amount from the confirmed contact area, test often, and refinish any exposed edge as required. Many exterior fiberglass and steel doors must not be trimmed. Altering a rated or exterior door can void the warranty and the tested assembly.
7. 7. Rehang the door and test the entire swing, latch, and clearance. If several openings changed together, cracks are widening, or the door still shifts in the frame, have the building movement or frame diagnosed instead of removing more door material.